Japanese Upcycle: The Art Of Boro
Photo Credit
Kuon @kuon_store
The Boro technique with cloth is a stitching method used to combine recycled materials. Boro has its origins in rural Japan between 1850 and 1950. Farmers of the era developed the technique to stay warm during extreme temperatures and poverty. Using the Sashiko method involves the layering of patchworked cloth stitched and mended over time. The term comes from "boro boro," meaning something tattered or repaired. To the Japanese working class, Boro garments are a reminder of the struggles during this period.
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Image Courtesy of Kuon @kuon_store
Today, antique indigo kinds of cotton and Boro garments are highly sought after by young designers and collectors who see great beauty in the technique's history and effect. Below is a list of creators who employ the method in their lines, lines that often include home goods and accessories. Note that due to the process and uniqueness of each piece, these crafted one-of-a-kind items may be in short supply.
FDMTL @fdmtldenim
"FDMTL mainly produces denim garments made in Japan, the worldwide manufacturing capital for denim. Uncompromising products are carefully made with such incredible detail that is difficult to obtain by mass production means. FDMTL denim is "JAPAN MADE." This includes fabric, sewing, and manufacturing. The vast knowledge and experience of skilled workmen are put into each product, resulting in detailed unique products that you can't achieve through mass production. Essential processes such as distressing breathe new life into the products. The creation begins by setting up the concept to avoid an unnatural style. This involves predicting the occupation of the person wearing the denim, the place, and the time. There are theories behind each process, so it's not only about the design but also about giving a rich expression, as vintage denim does. They are made by time and effort, and repeating the trial-and-error process which is a "space" far from things like efficiency."
Learn More: FDMTL
KIRIKO MADE @kirikomade
"Kiriko is a lifestyle brand forged from the spirit of Mottainai; a Japanese value that embraces one to waste nothing and recycle everything. Long ago, the cloth was hand-woven with patterns that held meaning and dyed with materials available through the seasons. In this way, we cycled with the seasons, not trends. We made memories with our belongings instead of replacing them with mass-produced goods. We are always searching Japan for vibrant Kasuri - both vintage and those made today in craft houses generations old, hand-dyed Shibori, and centuries-old Boros. Our apparel and accessories display the incredible traditional craftsmanship and care small textile factories in Japan boast. By purchasing our products, you are helping Kiriko Made as a small emerging brand and all the factories in Japan that create the materials we are fortunate enough to use."
Learn More: Kiriko Made
KUON @kuon_store
"Kuon is derived from the Japanese words "kuon", "distant past or future," and "eternity." While incorporating the history and culture of second-hand clothes and old fabrics worldwide, the brand's essence is to pursue simple coolness that does not change over time without being bound by that frame. After graduating from Bunka Fashion College, Shinichiro Ishibashi studied under a tailor in Marunouchi, Tokyo, and worked as a pattern maker for a Paris collection brand. Since 2014, he has been a freelancer in charge of design for multiple brands until he started the collection as KUON in 2016. Currently, we partner with "Otsuchi Sashiko Project" in Iwate prefecture, where the Great East Japan Earthquake occurred in 2011. We upcycle Boro with their Sahiko technic. Now, it helps people to find positive reasons to live in the community."
Learn More: Kuon
RIFATTO ATELIER & SHOP @rifatto_handmade
"Yuya, the founder of the Okinawa atelier Rifatto is fluent in traditional Japanese sewing techniques. He creates remakes based on worn and vintage items, alternating hand-made sashiko, boro, and machine sewing. Yura follows the philosophy of wabi-sabi and adheres to sustainable production; he cares about the environment and cherishes the history of garments that got into his hands. 'I was impressed by the hippie culture of the 1970-s. When I fell in love with second-hand clothing, most of all, I liked clothes with a background of hippie culture, music, art, and the military. The details of old military clothes are impressive. Clothes made for war are simple but lean and beautiful. I didn't go to sewing school. I learned all the skills by myself. I started remaking because I felt very attracted to the fact that by transforming something old, I could create something unique. Even the same old clothes have a different history depending on the person who wears them. It may have been worn at work or on a first date, it may have been bought on the first paycheck. I think that there are no similar stories in old clothes. A favorite technique is roughing using sashiko. You can process the aging change that the sewing machine cannot achieve."
Learn More: Rifatto Atelier & Shop
SASAKI JIRUSHI @vintagecustoman
"Rustic, Warm, Artistic. Mitsugu Sasaki and Chiho Sasaki opened a vintage clothing shop in Tokyo in 2009, and in 2014, Mitsugu developed a menswear label. The collection was born from their love of antique clothing and fabrics. The couple collects 100-year-old vintage linens from Europe and textiles from Edo, Meiji, Taisho, and Showa-era Japan. Under the gentle hands of the two artisans, these textiles get embroidered, patchworked, and transformed into one-of-a-kind clothing. There are no fibers such as polyester and nylon or any brand-new fabrics. They feel these cannot capture the warmth of the human touch one gets from vintage. And with this, craftsmanship is top of mind as they believe that just like the fabric they collect, clothes should last a lifetime."
Learn More: Sasaki-Yohinten
TSURUPIKA WORKS @hagedesu183
‘Odd fabrics, unnecessary fabrics, old fabrics, liquor bags, etc. We use materials derived from the army once or were released. I have no work experience at a sewing factory or learned at school. I choose sewing as a way to express my art. I don't feel like I'm making clothes.' Tsurupika Works started in 2016 in Kichijoji, Tokyo. The owner of Tsurupika Works used to work in stage/film set production. Since they began making clothes, it's been a journey, and they continue striving to improve their skill and create funky designs. All of his work is upcycle. They have loved used items such as military uniforms since he was younger. Though initially they are not intended to be sold, it turns out some of his followers like these versions better than others."
Learn More: Tsurupika Works
